Zion National Park

Why this park

Zion is the canyon you do not look down into from the rim, but walk along the bottom of and look up: red sandstone walls hundreds of metres high, the Virgin River winding straight through and green cottonwoods on the banks. The park sits in southwestern Utah, a few hours from Las Vegas, and is the starting point of the classic desert loop past Bryce Canyon and the Grand Canyon. It is also one of the busiest parks in the country — planning pays off.

For an RV trip, Zion is pleasantly straightforward. Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is closed to private vehicles for much of the year; you park at the visitor centre or stay at the campground next door and board the free shuttle that serves every trailhead. Two nights at Watchman Campground mean the RV does not move until you leave, and that you are first into the canyon early in the morning. Springdale, the village at the entrance, has its own shuttle, restaurants and a supermarket within walking distance.

With kids

The Riverside Walk is the classic for families: a paved path of well over a kilometre and a half each way along the river from the last shuttle stop (Temple of Sinawava), with hanging gardens on the rock wall and little sandy beaches for paddling. The Pa'rus Trail runs from the visitor centre along the river to Canyon Junction and is the only trail where strollers, bikes and dogs are allowed. Lower Emerald Pool is a short climb to a dripping rock ledge. Ask at the visitor centre about the Junior Ranger programme and the summer activities of the Zion Nature Center.

Heat sets the rhythm. In July and August the canyon floor regularly tops 38 degrees; hike before ten and after five, and spend the afternoon by the river or in the shade of the campground. In spring and autumn — the best months — days are pleasant and nights are cool. If you want to wade a stretch of the Narrows, check the water level and the forecast: when thunderstorms are possible upstream there is a flash-flood risk and the park says so clearly at the start. Angels Landing requires a permit through a lottery and is not for children; most families go no further than Scout Lookout, and that is fine.

Camping and reservations

Watchman Campground is within walking distance of the visitor centre and the shuttle stop, with some sites offering electric hookups and room for RVs; you reserve via Recreation.gov. South Campground next door has been closed for rehabilitation in recent years — check nps.gov whether it is open again this season. Lava Point, high up in the Kolob Terrace section, is small, primitive and for short vehicles only. There is a dump station and drinking water, but no showers in the park.

Recreation.gov releases Watchman sites on a rolling window; the exact term is on the campground page, and in spring, autumn and the Easter and autumn school holidays the electric sites are gone on release day. Put the date in your calendar and search on the day itself. If it does not work out, Springdale is the best alternative: several RV parks with full hookups sit on the village shuttle line, so you can get into the park without your own vehicle. Further afield are Hurricane and La Verkin (half an hour) and the east side of the park at Mount Carmel Junction, handy if you drive on to Bryce the next day.

Driving an RV

The one rule you must know: the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel on Highway 9, the passage to the east entrance and towards Bryce Canyon. Vehicles wider than 7 feet 10 inches (2.39 metres, mirrors included) or taller than 11 feet 4 inches (3.45 metres) may only pass through the tunnel with an escort: rangers stop oncoming traffic so you can drive down the centre, for a separate fee paid at the entrance that covers two passages. Practically every rental RV falls into that category. Escorts run only during fixed daytime hours that vary by season; vehicles taller than 13 feet 1 inch (3.99 metres) or exceptionally long are not allowed at all. Check the current hours and limits on nps.gov before you set off.

Inside the canyon you do not drive yourself while the shuttle is running (roughly March through November plus holidays) — the RV stays at the campground or in the large car park at the visitor centre, which fills early. If you enter from the east side, the descent after the tunnel is steep with hairpin bends; shift down and stick to the posted speed.

Frequently asked questions